Winter storage of machinery: how to properly put the machine into storage
Equipment downtime in winter is no reason to let things slide. In Kazakhstan, the off-season downtime for road construction machines often lasts 3–5 months, and frosts in northern and central regions reach −35…−40 °C. A machine left on-site without preparation greets the owner in spring with a dead battery, 'seized' hydraulic cylinder rods, condensation in the tank, and rust where it shouldn't be. Proper preservation costs a few hours of work and inexpensive consumables, but saves dozens of hours of repair and startup in the spring.
Why preserve equipment at all
The main enemies of an idle machine are — moisture, corrosion, and battery discharge. While the equipment is running, the components warm up, oil and grease are distributed over surfaces, and condensate evaporates. During storage, it is the opposite: 'day-night' temperature fluctuations drive moisture into the tank and crankcase, exposed rod metal rusts, rubber seals harden, and battery self-discharge accelerates significantly in the cold. Preservation is a set of simple actions that stop these processes.
Preparation before storage
You should start with a clean and functional machine — preserving dirt and hidden defects is pointless.
- Washing and drying. Remove dirt, soil residues, bitumen, reagents, and vegetation. Dirt retains moisture and accelerates corrosion. After washing, allow the equipment to dry completely.
- Inspection and minor repairs. Look for oil and antifreeze leaks, worn hoses, and cracks in high-pressure hoses. It is easier to fix minor issues now than in the spring rush before the season.
- Oil and filter replacement. Used oil contains acids and combustion products that will "eat" the bearings and crankcase walls all winter. Fresh oil is the best internal preservation for the engine.
Fuel system: full tank
Diesel tank is filled during storage almost completely — this leaves minimum air, and therefore condensate, which otherwise accumulates at the bottom and leads to corrosion and water in the fuel. Be sure to use winter (arctic) diesel fuel: summer diesel paraffins in the cold and clogs the filter so that the machine simply won't start. Drain the sediment from the filter-separator and, if provided by the design, replace the fuel filter before winter storage.
Cooling system and engine
Check antifreeze concentration with a hydrometer: it must maintain a threshold at least 10–15 °C below the lowest expected temperature in your region. Antifreeze diluted with water at −30 °C can crack the cylinder block or radiator — this is one of the most expensive winter breakdowns. Check the belt tension and loosen those that can be loosened so the rubber doesn't 'set' under tension.
Hydraulics — the most vulnerable part
Excavators, loaders, and rollers have open hydraulic cylinder rods rust first. The chrome coating gets pitted with corrosion in freezing temperatures and humidity fluctuations, and in spring, such a rod cuts the oil seals, leading to leaks.
- If possible, position the boom and working equipment so that the rods are fully retracted (hidden inside the cylinders).
- Cover exposed rod sections with preservation grease or solid oil — a thin layer will protect the chrome until spring.
- Check the level and condition of the hydraulic fluid, ensure there are no leaks in the high-pressure hoses and connections.
Battery and electrical system
Battery — the component most often "killed" by winter downtime. For long-term storage, it is better to remove and keep in a heated room, periodically recharging (about once a month). A charged battery only freezes at extreme temperatures, while a discharged one freezes at around −10 °C, after which it cannot be restored. If it cannot be removed, disconnect the negative terminal to prevent self-discharge through the onboard electronics. Clean and grease the terminals.
Undercarriage, cabin and details
- Tires and tracks. Check tire pressure — it drops in the cold. If possible, unload the undercarriage by placing the machine on stands so the rubber doesn't deform under the weight during months of inactivity.
- Cabin. Remove moisture, open the ventilation slightly, or place a desiccant to prevent seats from molding and instruments from fogging up. Close the exhaust pipe and air intake from precipitation and rodents.
- Lubrication. Grease all lubrication points — fresh grease will displace moisture from the friction units.
Where and how to store
Ideal option — dry ventilated box without sudden temperature changes. If the equipment is stored outdoors, place it on a solid base (not in mud or a puddle that will turn into ice in winter), cover it with a breathable tarp rather than thick plastic wrap — condensate accumulates under airtight film. It makes sense to conduct an inspection once a month: check the tarp, recharge the battery, and if possible, start and warm up the engine to operating temperature.
Spring de-preservation
Before the first start, remove the plugs from the exhaust and air intake, remove grease from the rods, install a charged battery, check all fluid levels, and drain any condensate from the tank. Crank the engine with the starter without starting it so the oil spreads through the system, and only then start it. Let the equipment idle, check the hydraulics for smooth operation and the absence of leaks.
Briefly about the main points
Winter conservation is not a complex procedure, but a matter of discipline: a clean machine, fresh oil and antifreeze, a full tank of winter diesel, protected rods, a removed battery, and a dry location. By spending a day in the autumn, you guarantee that the equipment will hit the site in the spring without unscheduled repairs or losing the first, most valuable working days of the season.
Need advice on maintenance and preparing FURD equipment for winter or selecting a model for your tasks? Leave a request on the website or write to the FURD KZ dealer manager on WhatsApp—we will advise on the regulations, consumables, and spare parts. Check exact prices and terms with the manager.